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Made to order in PretoriaReady in 2–4 weeksDelivery included in South Africa

Hands at the bench working the welt of a green ankle boot with an awl

The Making · Guide

Three builds, one price. All sewn entirely by hand.

Every pair is lasted by hand, and nothing that leaves the bench is machine-sewn. You choose the build when you commission; each costs the same.

01

Blake-stitched

In section · the dashed line is the hand stitch

Stitched by hand from inside a shoe already closed on the last.

A hand-sewn Blake is normally considered impossible, because the stitch has to run from inside a closed shoe. At this bench, every stitch of it is sewn by hand.

02

Hand-welted

In section · the dashed line is the hand stitch

The welt is sewn by hand to a holdfast carved from the insole.

No gemming strip, no machine.

03

Storm welt

In section · the dashed line is the hand stitch

A raised welt is sewn by hand tight against the upper, closing the seam.

“Norwegian” in the Norwegian Derby and the Norwegian Boot names the design of the upper, not the build. Like every build, the storm welt is not waterproof.

Which to choose

Which build for which pair

All three are equal. They differ in line, not in standard.

  • 01Blake-stitchedThe closest lineThe sole is stitched straight through to the inside, so it can be trimmed close to the upper. The edge is slim and the shoe is light and flexible from the first wear. Chosen most for dress pairs: Oxfords and wholecuts.
  • 02Hand-weltedThe classic edgeThe sole is sewn to the welt, not to the insole, so it stands a little proud of the upper. The pair has more structure underfoot and settles to the foot with wear. The choice for most everyday pairs and boots.
  • 03Storm weltThe closed seamA raised welt is sewn by hand tight against the upper, closing the seam. It reads heavier and more rugged. Chosen for boots and Field & Duty pairs. Like every build, it is not waterproof.
The three builds side by side
BuildBlake-stitchedHand-weltedStorm welt
Sole edgeClose, slimA little proud of the upperProud, with a raised welt
From newFlexibleFirmer, settles with wearFirmer, settles with wear
Often chosen forDressEveryday, bootsBoots, Field & Duty
PriceSameSameSame

Whichever you choose: sewn entirely by hand, lasted by hand, one price, and back to the same bench for resoling.

Choosing

One price, your choice

All three builds cost the same. Choose the one you want when you commission; if you are unsure, the bench will talk it through with you.

Ask the bench

Years later

Back to the same bench

When the sole wears through, the pair comes back to the bench that made it. The upper outlives several soles. Resole R750 · repair R450 · 1–2 weeks.

Recraft

Nothing is cut until your fit is confirmed.

See the shoes Your fit