
The Making · Guide
How a shoe should fit. Held at the back, free at the front.
Every last is worked to the client’s foot. There are no width fittings and no fixed widths. This is what the bench checks, and what you can check yourself when your pair arrives.
The heel: held
The heel holds the shoe on the foot. Walk a few steps: the heel should lift with you, with only a slight movement inside, never a slip.
A new leather heel counter is stiff. It feels firm for the first wears and then shapes to the heel. Firm is right; rubbing that breaks the skin is not.
The instep: closed by the lacing
On a laced pair, the instep is where you set the fit each morning. Laced, the two edges of the lacing should sit a little apart, not touching. That gap leaves room to draw the pair tighter as the leather gives.
On a Chelsea or a boot without laces, the instep does the holding alone.
The joint: snug across the widest part
The joint is the widest part of the foot, from the big toe joint to the little toe joint: measurement A. It should feel snug, with no pinch. The leather here gives most with wear and creases where your foot bends.
The toes: free to move
Your toes should move freely and not touch the end of the shoe.
Snug, true or roomy
Fit has a personal part. Before cutting, the bench asks how you like them to fit: heel, instep and toes, each snug, true or roomy. Tell it with your measurements, or it will ask.
Then it sends Your fit, confirmed: one page with your measurements, on WhatsApp.
When your pair arrives
- 01
Try them indoors
In the afternoon, in the socks you will wear.
- 02
Lace and walk
Lace them as you would to go out, and walk a few steps on a clean floor.
- 03
Check the fit
The heel held, the instep closed with the lacing edges apart, the toes free.
- 04
Tell the bench
If the fit isn’t what was confirmed, tell the bench within ten business days of delivery, before wearing them outside. It looks at each pair and puts right what can be put right; where it can’t, it agrees a remake with you.
Nothing is cut until your fit is confirmed.